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July 6, 2007

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Welcome to Russel's Ramblings™! This is the latest installment of my addition to the website, which focuses on the various aspects of the joy of the table- WINE! In this installment, I discuss Maryland wineries in general and Federick County wineries in particular - most notably Linganore Winecellars. Read on and click here to send me your comments and questions.

In the spring, Tonya and I took a brief (two day, one night) trip to Frederick, MD. We were looking for a quick getaway that was near a few wineries. We're big fans of the mini vacation. Initially we thought about going back to the Finger Lakes or making a trip to the new hot spot of Virginia. We decided those were too far for our tight schedule. So we thought about places we had not been before with a few wineries in close proximity and some place that was not too far. It also helped to look at some wine sites of states nearby (www.marylandwine.com and www.newjerseywines.com). Note, Delaware only has two wineries and no wine website that I could find; although you can purchase many different wines inexpensively in Delaware. But in our research we noticed that there were four wineries around Frederick, Maryland. So we loaded up the car and headed South in search of the best wineries in Maryland. We learned a lot about the regional history and we found some definite wine gems along the way!

Frederick is a small historic town that counts as its former residents former Supreme Court Chief Justice Taney and Francis Scott Key (Taney was married to Key's sister). The town is not far from Baltimore and only 2.5 hours from Philadelphia. In addition, the surrounding area had been central battleground in the Civil War, which means we have to return on a history tour. It is easy to get around since Frederick is your quintessential small American town and has a number of nice restaurants, shops and bars. There is even a minor league baseball team for those who visit in the summer. Only one of the tasting rooms, Frederick Cellars (www.frederickcellars.com), is located in the downtown area. The reason is they actually have two vineyards, one in Annapolis and one in Middletown. The other wineries, Elk Run Vineyards (www.elkrun.com), Linganore Winecellars (www.linganorewines.com), and Loew Vineyards (www.loewvineyards.net) are all located in the countryside within 15-20 minutes of downtown Frederick.

I was not sure what to expect in such an unknown area but after doing some research at the various winery websites it seemed that they had not only been growing grapes for some time, they had also been making wine - good wine. I am happy to say that this was a fruitful and informative trip! There are some really good wines coming out of the wineries. From some really interesting fruit and honey wines, to the well known varietals, we enjoyed every minute of it! We were even able to talk with the winemakers and even had a private tour and reserve tasting at Linganore.

The first winery we visited was Elk Run Vineyards. They have a number of really nice wines. We enjoyed the Maryland Merlot (with the accompanying Marilyn Monroe picture), the Cabernet Sauvignon, the Cabernet Sauvignon reserve, the Pinot Gris and everything else we tasted. What stood out most to me was their Pinot Noir. They are the only grower of Pinot Noir in Maryland. For those of you who saw Sideways or enjoy Pinot Noir, you may know this grape is fickle. It is hard to grow in even the best of circumstances and even harder to make into a good wine. I am glad that Elk Run has tried and succeeded in doing the near impossible! This is a must-have wine that you can only get from the winery since it seems you can't ship anything from Maryland except crab cakes! At least certainly not wine, much to our dismay. But back to the Elk Run Pinot - it has a lot of flavor, fruit forward and balanced. It is light and soft on the palate and not as high in alcohol as those you might get from California or Oregon. It was very similar to a French bottle that Tonya and I had the week prior. I think in a blind tasting this wine would stand up to any of those made in the same style from France, Oregon, California or anywhere.

Elk Run also had three different styles of Merlot: 2003 Merlot, 2005 25 Bunch Merlot and 2005 10 Bunch Merlot. What they did with the last two wines was cut the number of grape bunches per vine in order to intensify the flavor. You can see it in the color and taste it on the palate. These two are very, very tasty and can be enjoyed now or even laid down for a while.

Thirty seconds after leaving Elk Run, we made it to Loew Vineyards. This was a very understated tasting room. When we arrived, a gentleman was buying a bottle of wine to enjoy with his wife on her birthday. They had been married for over 50 years and he just wanted to surprise her with a nice treat. That boded well for the experience. I figured if that was a treat for someone who has been married for that many years, it would be a benefit for a guy who has been married for almost five years. I really enjoyed the Sauvignon Blanc, which was made with grapes purchased in California. I was also very pleased with their twist on a Bordeaux blend, which was a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Chancellor (that replaced Merlot). It is a blend from 2002 that was oak aged. I gave it a JOTT Rating of four out of five. In the whites, Serendipity, which is made with Reliance, was very refreshing and crisp. Twilight, a Riesling-Seyval blend, was also worth a second look (or is that taste).

Loew had two standout fruit wines, and although we are not big fans of fruit wines I have to say we really enjoyed tasting them. The Country Classic is a blend of red grape and blackberry, which can be chilled. The blueberry wine, made from New Jersey fruit, was exceptional. I highly recommend both of these wines.

The next winery, Linganore Winecellars, will get its own Rambling. Suffice to say, this was definitely the shining star because of the volume of the wines, both grape and fruit wines, and the passion of the winemaker, Anthony Aellen. We made two trips to this winery! The second day we tasted their reserve wines, which consisted of wines they had reserved from past vintages.

Linganore History

Berrywine Plantations was established in 1971 by Jack and Lucille Aellen on a 230 acre farm in Mount Airy, Maryland. Our first 6 acres of vineyards were planted in 1972 and with hand equipment from Lucille's father in Brooklyn, New York along with 33 used barrels the winery was opened in 1976. Starting in the lower half of a turn on the century bank barn the winery's first year production totaled 1600 gallons (approx 8,000 bottles).

Our family winery was the first to hold wine festivals starting in 1977 as a way to introduce the public to our wines. In 1978 we produced the states first semi-sweet grape wines. Our knowledge in the production of pure fruit wines with low alcohol was used to produce the first fruit wines and honey wines made in the Mid-Atlantic region that same year. By 1982 winemaking and vineyard management responsibilities were taken over by the two sons, Anthony and Eric. In 1983, with growing interest in regional wines, we established the Linganore Viticultural (grape growing) Area, the first Federal Viticultural area in Maryland. At that time the Linganore Winecellars label was dedicated for the production of our grape wines while the Berrywine Plantations label was used for our fruit and honey wines.

It was in these early 80's when we started working with the new hybrid grape varieties coming out of Cornell University's Geneva Test Station. As the results of these new grapes became apparent, larger acreage was devoted to their production. In 1989 we introduced our private label program, which allows individuals the opportunity to give our wines with their own special message, as gifts for special occasions. 1990 saw the introduction of dry fruit wines, introducing our customers to a different style of dinner wines. By 1990 vineyard acreage topped 50 acres.

Having outgrown the original peg bank barn, in 1997 we added 5000 square feet of warehouse space to store bottled wines.1999 saw a major expansion of the winery take place. We added a new 6000 square foot tank room/ processing room facility which took our capacity to 140,000 gallons. As the popularity of our winery and vineyards has grown, so has our commitment to our customers. We expanded our picnic and festival grounds to accommodate our growing number of visitors. Our festival schedule has grown to 5 major events and 50+ smaller indoor gatherings throughout the year. 2005 saw the renovation of the original bank barn into a gorgeous tasting room and barrel aging cellar. The upper level which used to store hay has been turned into a banquet facility.

Always finding something new and fun to do is what happens here at Linganore Winecellars. Our family invites you to come and share our award winning wines and warm hospitality in a fun and casual setting. Enjoy!

We finished the first day at Frederick Cellars. Frederick is a newer winery that uses grapes from both their Maryland vineyards and California. They make a tasty Pinot Noir from grapes purchased from the Central Coast of California. Their 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon from their Catoctin Vineyard was top notch. In my opinion this was a great example of what a local winery can do to interpret a vinefera varietal. Another red was the Heritage, which is almost a Bordeaux blend but is missing the Cabernet Sauvignon. It is a blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, which was soft and medium bodied. In addition, they made a Riesling from New York grapes that was full of pineapple and tropical fruits. Lastly, they had a chocolatier from The Perfect Truffle who was serving specialty chocolate. That stuff was out of control good! The pistachio and the hazelnut were my favorites. Tonya enjoyed it and she doesn't even like chocolate (go figure!) Check out the link to The Perfect Truffle website on our resources page so you all can get a taste of great chocolate the way it should be.

This was a great weekend trip and could easily be included in a trip to Baltimore, Gettysburg or the Maryland shore. And now that the Frederick Wine Trail is up and running, a longer trip would be very enjoyable. We hope to return for a longer trip in order to enjoy the neglected wine regions of Maryland and revisit some of our favorite stops along the way.

Cheers!

Russel

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