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Va La Vineyards
www.valavineyards.com


© 2006 Evans-Walls

Nestled -- or dare I say hidden -- along route 41 in Avondale, Pennsylvania, which is a most unlikely place to grow grapes, sits a little known rock star in the arena of new world wines. I say little known because Va La is a micro winery that produces limited production wines (rarely more than 300 cases of any wine) that you simply cannot find on the shelves of Wine & Spirit Shops or the "Wine Marts" of the world. But rest assured, Va La is a rock star in the new world wine set with a cult-like following of loyal supporters known as the Va La Nation. And yes, we are card carrying members.

The History

Owner and winemaker Anthony Vietri is a fourth generation owner of the Va La farm, which consists of a hillside cellar, seven acres of vines, and one family dedicated to each other, and to the creation of unusual but opulent wines that could certainly compete with any of the great wines actually produced in Italy.

The Va La farm was started in 1928 by Matteo and Carolina Carozzo, two immigrant farmers who struggled and saved little by little to buy the property. They worked the fertile land tirelessly and produced everything from milk and cheese to aged meats and poultry. Anthony and his wife, Karen, took it to the next level by doing the unthinkable, growing grapes and making wine in the heart of the mushroom capital of the world. They named the farm "Va La" to honor a tiny village in Piemonte called Giusvalla, which is where Anthony's family originated. The literal translation is "Go There" and that is our command for anyone who seeks to discover world class wines in Pennsylvania.

The Mystery

Va La is more than simply a place where grapes are grown, and wine is made and tasted. It is an all-encompassing experience for every sense because as soon as you find your place at the tasting bar ($10 tasting fee includes signature glass) you enjoy each Va La wine offered that day with specially selected locally produced bread, cheeses, spreads and chocolates. There is no rushing at Va La. In fact you are encouraged to meander and enjoy music and art work displayed on the second floor of the beautiful property.

The staff, consisting mostly (if not entirely) of family, makes every visitor feel right at home. They each are extremely friendly and knowledgeable, but never pretentious. The air is always filled with excitement and laughter. And this authentic charm is fully expressed in the wines.

The Wines

Anthony seems to be of the opinion that less is more, both in the number of wines produced -- eight -- and the quantity of cases made. And we could not agree more. There is nothing worse than visiting a winery that boasts a selection of 20 or more wines. If I remember correctly, the Jack of all trades never mastered any of them. But Anthony is a master indeed. He is part farmer, part chemist, part artist, part musician, and part entrepreneur. He's necessarily both obsessive and compulsive about his creations. As a result, his wines are thoughtful, mature and painstakingly well-crafted. The perfect combination of nature and nurture. As a result you should expect to pay $20-$40 for wines at Va La.

Va La currently offers two whites, Zafferano (Pinot Grigio - SOLD OUT) and 2005 La Prima Donna (a blend of Malvasia Bianco, Tocai, Pinot Grigio, and Viognier). We tasted the La Prima Donna on 12/16/06 and it was truly a treat. Warm tropical notes of pineapple, mango and a touch of honey with almost a sensual mouth feel make LPD a must-buy wine! And although we did not taste the Zafferano at that time, we know firsthand that it is top notch (check out our cellar list on the home page). We are happy for us but sorry for you that we purchased the last 5 bottles of Zafferano on Saturday. Hey, they only made 45 cases. And membership in the Va La Nation does have its privileges!

The reds encompass both traditional and unusual varieties. The 2005 Silk is a delicious and nicely structured blend of Cab Franc, Barbera, Merlot and Primitivo, in a style known as a Rosatto. It is a light-bodied "everyday" red that has a silky mouth feel, wild cherry and plum notes and no tannins. Those who like white but are looking for a transitional red should definitely try Silk. And red lovers will enjoy this on its own or paired with a wide range of mild foods -- salmon, chicken, veal, cheeses.

The 2005 Cristallo is a big "Super Tuscan" style wine that is comprised of 85% Sangiovese with the remaining 15% made up of Cab Franc and Cab Sauvignon for structure. This wine is delectable with its intense, full bodied flavor. Wild strawberry and subtle notes of cocoa bean predominate. A mineral finish allows the wine to linger a bit on the palate so you continue to enjoy the wine long after it leaves the mouth. Drinkable now with no discernable benefit to lay it down for long. It will probably pair well with burgers, chops, steaks and tomato-based or spicy sauces.

The 2003 Barbera was JUST released. Made of 100% Barbera, this wine is dark, dense, chewy and spicy. Not for the faint of heart. Mature palates will appreciate this complex wine because it offers notes of stone fruit, chocolate, and earth. The winemaker's notes suggest that it pairs well with a wide range of dishes from tame to spicy and heavy. This wine will stand up to foods that normally overwhelm wine. Consider decanting and buying a few bottles. One to drink now and at least one or two others to try later in order to discover how the wine changes over time. As good as it is now, we think this '03 Barbera will continue to get better!

The 2005 Chiaretto is Va La's "upside down" Bordeaux-style blend. They call it upside down because the grapes that usually predominate a Bordeaux (Merlot or Cab Sauvignon) now take a back seat to the lesser known varietals. In this case, Anthony chose to lead with Petit Verdot (which is usually used in small amounts for blending), followed by Cab Franc, Merlot and Cab Sauvignon. Opulent deep purple in color, bone dry with classic Bordeaux blend style notes (berry, pepper, toast/oak). Low tannins despite being aged for 6 months in french oak barrels. This is a big wine that virtually leaps out of the glass. It's best to decant for at least thirty minutes but it is certainly drinkable now. Note, the grapes were sourced from 15 year old vines at Mica Ridge.

The bell of the ball at the last tasting was the newly released 2005 Il Rustico ("The Rustic One"), made from 100% Carmine. Finding wine made from 100% Carmine is rare indeed and actually all prior releases of Il Rustico were blends. Both the nose and palate pick up dark berries, smoke and a bit of tobacco or licorice in the finish. This is a great "stand alone" wine but it can also be paired with textured meats like wild game as long as an accompanying sauce is not spicy.

Ratings/Recommendations

It is tough to recommend only a few wines. Firstly, because we enjoy and have purchased multiple bottles of each wine discussed above. But secondly, Va La wines sell out sometimes before they are even released due to the mile-long pre-release sign up lists for each wine, and certainly within months of release. So we'll make our recommendations, but you'll have to check the website to see if a particular wine is still being offered.


Must-Haves

2005 La Prima Donna
2005 Cristallo
2005 Il Rustico
2004 Chiaretto


Don't Miss These

2004 Silk
2003 Barbera

Info

www.valavineyards.com
(610) 268-2702
Hours: 12-6 PM Friday-Sunday (every day during the Christmas holiday)
8820 Gap Newport Pike (Route 41), Avondale, PA 19311
Fees: $10 (tasting includes signature glass); $7 (tasting w/o signature glass)

Copyright 2006-present Evans-Walls. All rights reserved.

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